How Do I Change the Thumbnail Photo When Sharing My Website On Facebook?

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Note: This post is part of our "Learn Blog" for small business SEO and photographers. For workshops, coaching, and other resources designed to help grow your skills as a photographer click here (after you watch the video, of course)!

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Video: How to Change Social Sharing Picture

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Directions

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So, Facebook is showing a picture that you don't want! If you're using Squarespace, here's how to change it.

Here's the order of links you'll need to click:

1. Once you're logged into Squarespace, click "Design"
2. Next, click "Logo & Title". At the very bottom, you'll see your social sharing photo. If you haven't chosen one yet, upload a photo. If you want to change the photo from one that's already chosen, select the trash can icon when you hover over your current photo.
3. Go to https://developers.facebook.com/tools/debug/og/object/ and enter in your URL.
4. Click "Fetch New Scrape Information"

Now your website URL photo should be updated!

Click here to return back the "Learn" Blog Feed

How Can I Tell the Differences Between the Pentax 105mm f/2.4 Lens Versions?

A Buying Guide: How to Tell the Different Pentax 105mm 6x7 Lens Versions Apart 

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Note: This post is part of our "Learn Blog" for photographers. For workshops, coaching, and other resources designed to help grow your skills as a photographer click here (after you read the article, of course)!

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Pentax 67 Medium Format Film Camera with the Pentax 67 SMC 105mm f/2.4 Lens

 If you’ve read our Pentax 67 Review, you know we love Pentax 67. The 105mm f/2.4 is a huge part of that legacy.

And if you’ve found this article, you've probably been convinced that its a great lens, but once you started searching Ebay, you noticed that there's obviously more than one version of the legendary Pentax 67 105mm f/2.4 for your Pentax 645 or Pentax 6x7 system. Not only that, but there's obviously a large difference in price, but does it really matter?

Well, in short... 

Yes, it does matter.

What's in this article:

• What's the same between the different Pentax 105mm versions?

• What's the difference and why does it matter?

• Are the differences between the different Pentax 105mm lenses worth the cost?

Pentax 105mm f/2.4 Super Takumar vs Super Multi Coated vs SMC Pentax

What's the same?

All three versions of the Pentax 105mm f/2.4 are exactly the same as far as internal design. That is, the design, not necessarily the glass, is the same. 

What's the difference?

Let's start with a what's what:

In order from earliest (and least expensive usually) to newest (and usually most expensive):

• Super Takumar (Introduced in 1969)

• Super Multi Coated Takumar (introduced in 1971)

• SMC Pentax (Introduced in 1989)

  • In my research I have found that there are at least two different “versions” of the SMC Pentax 105mm. An earlier serial number version has a strong purple/red coating cast on the lens, while a newer serial numbers appear to have a stronger green/yellow cast.

Super Multi Coated Takumar Pentax 6x7 105mm f/2.4 Lens

The original Super Takumar is easily recognized by the words "Super Takumar" on the front, while the words "Super-Multi-Coated Takumar" indicate the next version introduced in 1971. Both of these versions have a metal focus ring.

The newest version is typically quite a bit more expensive and can easily be recognized by "SMC Pentax" on the front and by the rubberization on the focus ring, vs the metal of the older versions. This latest version is also slightly lighter than the older versions.

SMC Pentax 67 105mm f/2.4 Lens

It is rumored that each version featured an updated coating that provided better micro-contrast and sun-flare control. This means in theory that each successive version will have a subtle increase (if noticeable) "3d" effect compared the one prior, and better contrast and light control.

Worth noting is that the SMC does appear to have at least two versions in terms of it’s coating. The earlier has a purple/red coating on the glass (which can be seen when light is reflected while looking at the front element), while the newer serial number version has a yellow/green reflection.

The coating difference was probably due to manufacturing regulation changes. Though I have obtained a copy of each version, I do not know as of yet whether there are any noticeably differences in the image produced by the two different versions. When I conclude my tests, I will update here.

Issues with Older Versions and Radioactivity

The older lenses are more prone to balsam separation, fungus, and yellowing. Yellowing, in particular, is an issue that the two older versions encounter due to the radioactive material (sounds scary, but it's not that unhealthy) due to the use of thorium glass elements. Some argue that the 2nd version does not yellow. Please see the below section for more info on that.

Thorium glass was cheaper and was thus a popular choice. If and when it yellows due to the radioactivity, it can cause the color transmission to be less neutral and, well...yellow.  The SMC Pentax version did not use thorium glass, but instead a high-index non-radioactive glass, which, again, in theory, should mean an improved image and no yellowing. 

Another point to the SMC Pentax.

With that said, yellowing can be cured by placing the lens in direct sunlight with tinfoil under the rear element. Also, UV lights have been reported to also clear yellowing. 

Does the 2nd Version Super Multi Coated Takumar Yellow?

I've heard many intelligent photographers assert that the 2nd version, the Super Multi Coated Takumar, does not yellow. However, I heartily disagree with this. I have seen multiple examples of yellowed 2nd versions. However, they are not always yellowed. 

Here's a video showing that the 2nd version can indeed be radioactive. 

Is It Possible for the SMC Pentax 105mm to Yellow?

Some people report seeing yellowing on the SMC version, but this is only a property of the lens coating reflecting certain light. A true "yellowed" lens will show a yellow color, no matter which light is reflecting off of it. The SMC, if yellow in certain light, will reflect various colors when the elements are pointed at different angles/directions. But will appear clear and neutral when placed against a neutral background without light reflecting the coating.

Is the SMC Pentax worth the extra cost?

This question is a little like the question of “which version Pentax 67 should I buy?” You’re going to get a lot of value out of any version, both of the Pentax 67 cameras and the Pentax 67 105mm versions.

So, is the SMC Pentax worth it? If you shoot backlit quite a bit, having the extra contrast and flare control is highly desirable. That, coupled with non-radioactive non-yellowing glass, and a higher chance of avoiding the degradation (balsam separation, fungus) of older lenses may just be enough to warrant the upcharge. 

Keep in mind though, a well cared for, yet older version lens that's been stored and used properly may be in much better shape than a newer lens that has been abused. Always check the description of the lens you're buying thoroughly to ensure spending more than you should or getting a lemon. 

Now, head over to Ebay and start trying to identify them! And if you would...

Click here to use our affiliate link, since Ebay will give us a portion of profit when you make a purchase!

Thanks in advance!

If this article has been helpful, please be sure to like below and share! Thank you!

A Buying Guide: What are the Differences Between Pentax 6x7 and Pentax 67 Versions?

Differences Between the p67 Versions: Asahi Pentax 6x7  vs. Honeywell 6x7 vs. 6x7 MLU (Mirror Lock-Up) vs. Pentax 67 vs. Pentax 67ii

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Note: This post is part of our "Learn Blog" for photographers. For workshops, coaching, and other resources designed to help grow your skills as a photographer click here (after you read the article, of course)!

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Picture of a Pentax 67 Film Camera with Prism and Pentax 105mm f/2.4 lens sitting on table

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If you’ve read my Pentax 67 review, you've discovered that the Pentax 6x7 system is an amazing camera. But, now you're realizing there are multiple iterations and that they all cost a different amount of your valuable cash. 

Believe it or not, there are cheaper versions that are passed off as more expensive, and vice-versa. So, how can you know what to look for and buy so you get the most bang for your buck?

In this post we'll cover some very basic info that will help you:

• Visually identify which version is which

• What some of the upgrades of each P67 version are

• Which one may be the best fit for you

At this point, I'll add that this is in no way meant to be comprehensive. There are plenty of other forums and articles that delve way more in depth to the technical details of each system, as a simple Google search will show.

This post was written because, after trying to understand the differences myself, I found that many of the articles that showed up in searches had tons of great technical info, but didn't easily lay out how to easily tell the difference between the various Pentax 67 versions from a buyer's perspective.

So, if that's you, read on to find out how to indentify some basic Pentax 67 versions differences!

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What are the different Pentax 67 Versions?

First, let's list the 5 versions of the Pentax 6x7 camera:

• Asahi Pentax 6x7

• Honeywell 6x7

• Asahi Pentax 6x7 with MLU (Mirror Lock-Up)

• Pentax 67

• Pentax 67ii

Asahi Pentax 6x7 and Honeywell Pentax 6x7

The original Pentax 6x7 was released in 1969, and did not have a mirror lock-up function. These models are the oldest of Pentax's 6x7 models. If for no other reason, these are the least desirable in terms of reliability of the 6x7 models, merely because they are the oldest. So, what is the Honeywell Pentax? Well,  included with the earliest version 6x7 is the Honeywell Pentax. It is essentially the same as the Pentax 6x7, only marketed specifically to the USA.

Asahi Pentax 6x7 vs Pentax 6x7 MLU Differences

Pentax 6x7 MLU Mirror Lock Up Medium Format Film Camera with 105mm f/2.4

So, how do you tell if a  Pentax 6x7 is MLU (Mirror Lock Up), and why does it matter? The MLU version was released as an update to the original 6x7. It has a small switch on the right side near the opening for the lens. These are generally considered more reliable than the non-MLU versions if not for age alone, and typically carry a little bit higher price tag, if the owner is aware. 

To see whether or not a 6x7 you're checking out has mirror lock-up, check the left side of the front of the camera, near where the lens attaches to the body and you'll find either a button that slides up (indicating MLU) or nothing. That's how to tell if a Pentax 6x7 has mirror lock up. Not too tough to figure out, right?

What's the same about the Pentax 6x7 and the Pentax 6x7 MLU?

Both of the Pentax 6x7 and the 6x7 MLU featured either a TTL metered or non-TTL prism. These always had the words, "Asahi Pentax" on the front of the prism. The only exception to this rule, or course, is the Honeywell Pentax, which was the earliest version that was marketed to the USA.

It is worth noting that various Pentax 6x7s and 6x7 MLUs that you find on Ebay will often have a later version prism on them. So, going by prism markings alone will not tell you whether or not it is a 6x7, 67, or 67ii.

Telling the Pentax 6x7s and the 67s Apart

Pentax 6x7 MLU

Pentax 67

The later Pentax 67 and 67ii sported only "Pentax" on their original prisms, unlike the "Asahi Pentax" on the earlier versions. However, since the prisms are interchangeable between every version and are often swapped out, the best and easiest way to recognize a Pentax 6x7 from the later 67 and 67ii models is to look at the model plate at the top left (when the camera's front is facing towards you). There you will see either 6x7 or 67. The Pentax 67ii will have a "67ii" inscription on the right front, as opposed to the left. 

Reasons you may want to buy either the 67 or 67ii vs the 6x7

Reliability

Since they are newer, the 67 and 67ii may be more reliable than an older version. Likewise, the Pentax 6x7 MLU is generally considered a more safe bet than the non-MLU version, if not for any other reason because it is newer. 

Fixes

With the 67 came a shutter timing improvement that allowed the exposure value to be more consistent than the 6x7 when using a TTL-Metered Prism.

Ergonomics

The 67ii featured an updated design which included a better grip on the right side. The 67ii is slightly lighter than the previous versions. 

Viewing/Focusing Screen on the Pentax 67 Versions

The focusing screen of the Pentax 67 versions is not the brightest or best in terms of contrast. However, certain p67 screens are better for specific applications. If you mainly center compose, getting a split prism or microprism screen might be best. If you compose off center, getting a matte screen is your best bet.

The microprism screens I've owned on the 6x7's and 67 do not have very good contrast or brightness in comparison to the matte. You can see examples of this in my article comparing the Pentax 67 focusing screens.

I have owned a 67ii with a microprism screen that was probably about as bright/contrasty as my 6x7/67 matte screens.

I have not tried ALL the screens, but I will say that the brightest and most contrasty screen I have used was the Maxwell Precision Optics Hi-Lux Matte Screen, followed closely by the 67ii screen. The Maxwell screen is very clear, sharp, and bright compared to any screen in any Pentax 67 version I've tried.

Features

Are multiple exposures a big deal to you? You'll have to go 67ii unless you want to use a leaf shutter lens and use the multiple exposure function on the lens itself. It's worth noting, if you use a 67 with a leaf shutter lens, you cannot focus/see your recomposed frame. So, the 67ii really shines here with its double exposure ability. 

Possible Issues with the 67ii

I have spoken with two very popular and reputable repairmen, both of which affirmed that the 67ii is a bit more of a risk than the older versions. It isn't built quite as tank-ly as it's previous versions. The 67ii has electronics that, if they go out, pretty much mean the end of the camera for anything besides parts.

There are also several other internal differences cause even the mechanics of the 67ii to be a bit more of a monster to deal with, repair-wise. Certain parts used in the 67ii are very hard to come by, which means a possible repair is actually impossible until the parts show up. 

These are factors that prevent me from putting much stock into using a 67ii as my main 67 bodies. 

Budget/Prices

So, how much does each Pentax 6x7 version cost? Here we will consider bodies with prism only. Although prices can vary greatly depending on where it is sold, the seller, and various other variables, as of the current 2017 market for excellent condition bodies, you can expect to pay the following:

• Pentax 6x7 (and Honeywell Pentax): $300-$400

• Pentax 6x7 MLU: $300-$500

• Pentax 67: $350-$700

• Pentax 67ii: $1200-$1800

We haven't spoken about the additional wood grip (that can be added to the versions besides the 67ii). However, it can add around $100 to the value of any version. So, if you're looking at 67 version which includes this grip, then you may want to consider that as part of the price. Other items which may affect value include viewfinder type (chimney hood, waist level finder), although none of these greatly affect the price. Very similar 67s with the exact same viewfinders may both go for the same price. Likewise, a 6x7MLU with a wood grip may go for about the same price as one without a wood grip. 

Pentax 67 with Waist Level Viewfinder

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And the Winner is...

Obviously, the Pentax 67ii has advantages over the earlier versions, but not without a price tag. You can expect to pay possibly $1300 more than what you'd pay for a 6x7 MLU, when you can get the base model in all it's 6x7 glory for probably less than a fifth of the price. The 67 is a good go-between and can typically cost less than double the cost of the original 6x7. However, the Pentax 67ii is definitely "the cream" of this crop.

But is it worth all the extra cost and possible hang-ups?

That's up to you. 

For me, I've found that the 6x7 MLU and 67 are great, though I do wish they had a double exposure ability.

It's Hard to Go Wrong With a Pentax 6x7 System

Unless you just happen to get a dud, whether you get a 6x7 or a later version, you're getting one killer camera. All improvements aside, they're all built tough, so as long as you're getting it from a reliable seller you're making a great choice of camera.

Where to Buy w Pentax 67

I’ve always had a lot of luck searching eBay for good Pentax 67 setups. Just be sure to purchase one from a seller with good ratings that offers a returns!

If you're considering buying any of the Pentax 6x7 systems off Ebay, please use our links! We get a portion from Ebay when a sale is made using these.

Thanks in advance!

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Articles Related to Pentax 67 Version Differences

Now that you know the differences between the Pentax 67 bodies, why not check out how to tell the difference between the Pentax 67 105mm f/2.4 lens versions, too? 

Pentax 6x7 Gallery

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Other Interesting Posts

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SEO: What To Do If The Wrong Webpage Is Ranking

What to Do if the Wrong Website Page is Ranking

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So, you're having an issue with the wrong page ranking on Google?

We've been there, done that.

Not only have we had other pages competing with our homepage, but we've had them show up right next to our homepage. Take a look!

Now, having both very close together isn't so bad, but when a different page than you'd like it ranking for your target keyword(s) that you want your homepage ranking for, that can be a BIG issue. 

I'll make this short and sweet so you can get to fixing it.

Our problem was that a particular blog we posted was better optimized than our homepage.

A couple issues were at play and we believe these were the cause:

1. Photos on our home page were too large.

-If Google thinks your home page loads too slow, they might not think it's as good of a fit as another page on your domain.

Solution: Optimize your photos! Make sure they're no more than 2048px on the long side with 72 resolution. We typically export our wedding photos at 80% at those settings, plus we use JpegMini Pro to further reduce their size, without limiting quality.

2. We weren't using our H1 headers properly.

Solution: Make sure your keywords are in your H1 title text!

*If you or the CMS (content management system such as Squarespace, Wix, or Wordpress) you're using doesn't implement HTML, make sure you've only got one H1 heading, and that it contains your keywords. I know for sure Squarespace does currently use HTML5, so there no issues with multiple headings on one page.

Other Solutions For Making Sure the Correct Webpage Ranks in Search Engines

• Put some anchor text on your blog posts containing your keywords and hyperlink to your homepage.
• Make sure your dofollow backlinks, especially your are best ones are pointing to the page you want to rank for that particular keyword.
• De-optimize your blog post. This is a last ditch effort and you should try everything else first and wait a couple of weeks (unless you're willing to just go for it). Take out the H1 keywords that are competing with your homepage.
• Blogs are especially great for ranking in keywords that may not be directly related to your main keyword, without risking your rankability for your main keywords for your homepage. For example, "Tulsa wedding planner" might not be your main keyword, but you could post a blog post with that title without it competing with your homepage. This also allows you to not overstretch your main homepage keywords, thus allowing your competition to have an edge

If this info was helpful, please be sure to like and share! 

If you've had this issue, what are some other measures that we didn't mention that you took to ensure the right page was ranking?

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If you're interested in more SEO for wedding photographers and other resources for professional wedding photographers, check out our other blog posts here! 

Until next time,

Jeff